Kaohsiung vital statistics:

• Population: 2,540,000 (urban area)
• Latitude & longitude: 22˚ 38′ N, 120˚ 16′ E
• January average temperature: High 23.9˚C (75.0˚F), low 15.7˚C (60.3˚F)
• July average temperature: High 32.4˚C (90.3˚F), low 26.4˚C (79.5˚F)
• Time zone: GMT+8 (12 hours ahead of U.S. EDT)
• Language: Taiwanese, Chinese, Hakka
• Currency: New Taiwan Dollar (NT$)
• Exchange rate: US$1=NT$29
• Average rent of 1-bedroom apartment in city center: $284.94

17 April 2018: My first impression: Am I still in Taiwan? This place is beautiful! Are you sure this isn’t Hong Kong?

Kaohsiung is just 25-30 miles south of Tainan near the southern tip of Taiwan. After a short train ride from Tainan, I arrived at my hotel, which is a little bigger and more impersonal than the one I stayed at in Tainan but still checks all my boxes: Fast wi-fi, power outlets, private bathroom with hot water, A/C. I took my sweet time getting settled in and then explored the neighborhood near the hotel on foot in the early evening.

It was a crisp, cool evening. I chose to stay in the harbor area of Kaohsiung, which the city government has spruced up by turning old warehouses into shopping malls and artists’ studios, by adding pedestrian-only zones and bike lanes, and by planting green spaces and public art everywhere. They did a great job — it’s the only area I’ve ever been in in a Taiwanese city that features truly walkable, stroll-able dining, shopping, and nightlife. I do have my concerns — borne out by my week here — that this area of the city is perhaps a bit too touristy for a place I’d want to live, but it’s the first stop of my trip so far that I would want to invite my friends and family to purely as a tourist destination.

The center of this area is called the Pier-2 Art District (駁二藝術特區). There’s an old warehouse right along the harbor that’s been spruced up and sparsely repopulated with an airy, open floor plan, with mostly artists’ studio space on the top floor and upscale arts and crafts, food and drink purveyors, and a restaurant on the ground floor. I ate dinner at the restaurant, which was delicious as everything is in Taiwan, and was actually priced very reasonably: NT$230 ($7.83) for two mains, two appetizers, and a bubble tea.

Then I walked over to a little brewery outpost in the same building and enjoyed an excellent and very pricey (NT$180 [US$6.13]) craft beer. (I guess I can take comfort in the fact that some things never change. No matter where you are in the world, craft beer will always be overpriced.)

My yardstick for measuring a great city to live in is Hong Kong. Admittedly, Kaohsiung Harbor is not as jaw-droppingly spectacular as Hong Kong’s Victoria Harbour is. But I will argue (one of my friends will disagree vehemently; you know who you are, T.) that it has a similar vibe. A place where you can amble around and people-watch in a leisurely fashion while also soaking up the excitement of being in a lively city. And unlike Victoria Harbour, Kaohsiung Harbor is still a functioning port. A few nights ago, my cross-harbor ferry was delayed for a couple of minutes waiting for a freighter to pass. That’s not something you have to worry about riding the Star Ferry in Hong Kong! (And this being Taiwan, this was not a car ferry but a motor scooter ferry. Inevitably.)

Why isn’t this place on the (Western) tourist radar? (It is very much on mainland Chinese tour buses’ radar.) It probably doesn’t help that the city’s name is unpronounceable to English speakers. It’s pronounced “Gao-sheeohng.” Basically. Sort of. And although it’s a pleasant place, it lacks truly spectacular sights.

• The same (lacks spectacular sights) can be said of Taiwan generally. Unless you’re a big museum person. In that case, the National Palace Museum in Taipei, the world’s greatest museum of Chinese art and artifacts, might qualify as spectacular. (“Pleasant,” however, is not how I would describe any other cities in Taiwan. They’re not unpleasant, exactly… “workaday” is probably the best adjective.)

I thought about starting my Taiwan sojourn in Kaohsiung and working my way north, but now I’m so glad I left it for last. It’s far and away my favorite city in Taiwan. Taipei and Tainan would have been very disappointing follow-ups. It’s way too early in my trip to pick a winner, but I will say that Kaohsiung is a strong contender at least for my future winter residence.

We shall see. The comfort and familiarity of the Taiwan portion of my journey is nearly at an end. I truly jump into the deep end with my next destination: Kandy, Sri Lanka.